Fried foods, flash floods, and family in “The Big Easy”

With two weeks of “pre-summer session” break to kill while Jonny studied for final exams, I convinced my family from California to meet me in New Orleans to play, eat, relax, and explore the beautiful and unique city. Originally, I chose New Orleans because the annual Physician Assistant conference was happening there during that week, and I thought it would be interesting to attend. However, when my parents and brother agreed to join me for the week, I decided that I would rather take advantage of the time I had with them and go to the conference another year.

Having not seen my family since January, I was elated to see my mom videotaping me as I rode the airport escalator down to baggage claim. I greeted my dad and younger brother shortly after, and the adventure began! Jonny and I drove through New Orleans during our cross-country road trip to Wisconsin last year, so I was excited to introduce my family to the culture and eccentricities of the city we had experienced.

Of course, it was a completely different trip with almost 7 days to explore and record-hitting mid-May temperatures, but here are some highlights of our trip (aka things we did in between taking shelter in air-conditioned shops, restaurants, and our hotel)!

Day 1 – Arrived in New Orleans and headed to dinner at Chef Ron’s Gumbo Stop for delicious gumbo, po-boys, and fried chicken (we ultimately decided that Chef Ron’s had the best fried shrimp of our trip!)

Day 2 – Ate beignets at Cafe du Monde (definitely better than donuts…), explored French Quarter/Jackson square, sampled the original Muffuletta at Central Grocery for lunch (yes, the four of us split 1 because it was huge!), Garden district walking tour, St. Charles streetcar ride, Wednesday at the Square concert at Lafayette Square

Day 3 – Toured Oak Alley Plantation for pretty much the whole day (it was surprisingly quite a tasteful presentation) and ate dinner at Heads and Tails so that my dad could finally get his oysters

Day 4 began quite normally with the quintessential swamp tour complete with mini-marshmallow feedings, swamp lore, and baby gator-holding. We ate a fried chicken lunch at Willie Mae’s Scotch House, walked around St. Louis cemetery #3 looking for the oldest dated tombstone in the hot, humid afternoon, napped in City Park, had coffee at Morning Call Coffee Stand….then proceeded to be stranded at said cafe for hours while a massive thunderstorm took place outside. Luckily we had a deck of cards and played the game “landlord” ad nauseam. Well, three of us played. My dad was outside trying to take storm pictures pretty much the whole time. It was probably close to 6pm when the storm let up slightly and we made a break for it. Just on the short drive to dinner and back to the hotel, we saw multiple roads closed, flooding in side streets, and people pushing their cars through the transiently formed lakes. It was a frightening reality check about the conditions the New Orleanians faced each year throughout the long hurricane season that hadn’t even officially started yet.

Day 5 –  Caught a ferry to Algiers point for the sake of riding the ferry (the same ferry that was in the movie DeJa Vu), visited the Jazz Museum (which surprisingly didn’t have a lot of Jazz-related exhibits in it), walked down Bourbon street as it was getting crazy, listened to some live jazz at Musical Legends Park, ate a very fried dinner at Rivershack Tavern and very hard to make our food last long enough to hear the live band that started at 9pm. This was the day that my mom and I swore off fried foods for the remainder of the vacation.

Day 6 – Attended a small, multi-ethnic Southern baptist church in Kenner, then visited the Bayou Boogaloo music festival that was happening that weekend. Played cards, watched people with their floaties, got bit by an ant, and randomly ran into the only two people I know in New Orleans! Enjoyed a crawfish/shrimp boil platter for dinner!

Day 7 – Though we spent the whole day at the World War II museum, we literally only got through 1.5 of the 4 buildings that had exhibits. It was a really engaging museum, even for someone who doesn’t consider themselves very educated on the details war history. We had our last dinner at Chef Ron’s Gumbo Stop, but alas, Sno-La, the cheesecake stuffed snowball place next door (that we had been talking about going to all week) had recently closed for construction! On the bright side, my brother and I finally beat “Overcooked” that night after many nights of hard work!

I had an amazing time in New Orleans with my family, but I was thoroughly stuffed and ready to go home to my hard-at-studying husband.

 

 

Road to Milwaukee: Day 9

This morning we got up a little earlier than usual so that we could visit Cafe du Monde, the famous coffee house in the New Orleans French Quarter, for cafe au lait (half coffee and half hot milk) and beignets (French style doughnuts). The original Cafe du Monde opened in 1862, and it is open 24/7 (excluding Christmas Day and bad hurricane days). Both coffee and beignets were introduced to New Orleans by the Acadians, descendants of French colonists from modern-day Nova Scotia, Canada. The coffee served in Louisiana is unique because it is often mixed with ground, roasted chicory (the root of the endive plant) that gives the resulting beverage a smoother, less bitter taste.

We sampled the both the hot and iced cafe au lait, as well as an order of beignets to share. The coffee was delicious and paired perfectly with the warm, pillowy fried dough-squares coated generously with powdered sugar. The atmosphere of the outdoor cafe was marvelous with the warm morning air, limited crowds, and a street musician playing the trumpet right outside.

Next, we headed away from the city for the much-awaited swamp tour in the bayou! We had a wonderful and hilarious guide on our tour with Cajun Pride, and we saw countless alligators, turtles, and raccoons (and also two adorable newly hatched heron chicks!). Our guide even brought animals with him on board so that we could have a hands-on experience with the swamp animals. We unexpectedly ended up getting to touch and hold a crawfish, turtles, a snake, and a small alligator! Our guide, Brandon, also did some feeding demonstrations, throwing the alligators marshmallows and chicken necks as they swam up alongside the boat.

After the swamp tour, we went to lunch at Willie Mae’s Scotch House for some James Beard award-winning “America’s Best Fried Chicken”. Willie Mae’s unfortunately sustained heavy damage after Hurricane Katrina, but they were able to reopen in 2007 with help from many organizations including the Southern Foodways Alliance. The chicken was so crispy and delicious, indeed the best friend chicken we’ve ever had! We also got to try their butter beans (large lima beans cooked up into a stew-like texture), mac and cheese, and cornbread.

New Orleans Day 2-20

We returned to our Airbnb for a quick rest and then headed back out to explore New Orleans’ historic Garden District. The architecture in the Garden District is grand and beautifully archaic, with houses boasting tall white columns, wide porches, towering balconies, and black iron fences. The self-guided walking tour of the neighborhood brought us to the 3rd oldest cemetery in the United States, the site of an ice skating rink built for the 1984 World’s Fair, the house that Disney’s “haunted mansion” was based off of, the childhood house of Eli and Peyton Manning, and the current house of actress Sandra Bullock, among others. It was interesting to see common themes across many of the houses, such as a gas light that burns day and night and the sky-blue painted underbelly of balconies (that is supposed to keep insects from nesting there and also to “ward off evil spirits”).

Our exploring eventually brought us to Magazine Street, where we wandered through shops and split a fried shrimp po-boy and an Abita Amber (a Munich style lager brewed north of New Orleans) at Mahony’s Po-Boy Shop for an afternoon snack.

 

For dinner, we had reservations at Shaya, a modern Israeli restaurant specializing in their fresh, homemade, wood-fired pita and small plates. My friend and old boss, Dr. Tajirian, highly recommended that we come, and we were not disappointed! The pita was incredibly soft, warm, and delicious, and it went so well with the curried cauliflower hummus and shakshouka we ordered. We also tried the crispy halloumi dish recommended by our server and it was excellent as well.

 

Fun fact: At Shaya, we were curious, so Jonny asked our server what the greatest number of pita per person was that he had seen eaten. The server told us that he served a party in which there were three pita consumed per person!!! (for reference, Jonny had 1.5 pita and was ready to explode…)

 

Road to Milwaukee: Day 8

Today we had a long drive from Houston to New Orleans in which we entertained ourselves with an “Eater Upsell” podcast with Anthony Bourdain and started season 2 of Serial (despite everyone’s warnings that it wasn’t as good as season 1). Once we were in Louisiana, it was quite interesting to drive over large bodies of water with trees sticking up all over the place!

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We stopped for lunch at Prejean’s Restaurant in Lafayette, a record holder for the most medals awarded to any culinary team in the South. We enjoyed their delicious chicken andouille gumbo (the darkest but most flavorful gumbo I’ve ever eaten) as well as their gold-medal crawfish etouffee.

Once we arrived in New Orleans, we wandered around the French Quarter, Bourbon Street, and Frenchmen Street. The buildings were so beautiful and unique, but the atmosphere was stimulating and crazy, especially once it got later into the evening. On Bourbon street, in particular, every other storefront was a restaurant, a bar with live music, or a strip club. It wasn’t the most comfortable, but it was truly unlike any other big city I’ve ever seen.

We had dinner in the French Quarter at Gumbo Shop, and had their creole combination platter (Shrimp Creole, Jambalaya and Red Beans and Rice) and a bowl of seafood okra gumbo. After our meal we walked around Jackson Square and enjoyed amazing views of the Mississippi river on the Moon Walk (the riverside promenade).

Later, we met up with our friends Nick and Iana (who live in New Orleans) and went to Maison Bourbon, one of Bourbon Street’s oldest jazz clubs (“dedicated to the preservation of jazz”), to enjoy some drinks and live music. Jonny ordered a Sazerac, a cocktail (made up of absinthe, simple syrup, Peychaud’s bitters, and Rye whisky) that was invented in New Orleans in the late 1830s. It was great to hang out and catch up with some friends after traveling on our own for a week now!

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We have another full day in New Orleans tomorrow, so stay tuned!